Saturday, August 31, 2013

Process: Apparel Arts skirts

I've been doing this Apparel Arts thing since January and all I seem to post are unbleached muslin process photos. It feels simultaneously like the least fulfilling thing that I do and the most fulfilling thing that I do. Where is the finished product??? In my brain so far...

The first topic, skirts, didn't hold that much appeal for me before I started. I don't usually wear them. In the bare legs department, I usually prefer dresses because they are easy for work. Throw on one piece and you are done. Skirts have to be STYLED. Maybe one can wear a tshirt with them but it never feels quite put together. I tended towards jean skirts for many years and now I want to take it further.

My class is great. We work independently with a teacher, Heather, who comes around to talk to each of us individually. The goal is to work our way through a book that was written by the founder of the school, Suzy Furrer.

The pattern drafting course can take 2-3 years to complete. It's up to us how fast we move. Personally I have had to do most of my work in class, I don't have a lot of time for homework. But that's why I decided in the first place that this was a possibility, it's very flexible and there is no up front financial commitment. I pay as I go and it doesn't matter how long it takes. When I have time, of course I like to do work at home.

Anyway eight months (Aids/LifeCycle, a tour, and some family bombs later) and I'm onto my final two skirt projects, which I'm making in fashion fabric. Yeehaw! My first skirt is inspired by a JCrew skirt from their 2013 Spring collection. It's a pretty simple shape, one that we even did in an exercise: the inverted box pleat.

The first round of design needed more drama. I think I did pretty much what we did in the book exercise, 3" box pleat, and small extension for more of an A-line
shape. When I tried on the muslin, I wanted more. So I added a deeper pleat and more flare.

This also has a jump pleat lining, and the first muslin was a learning experience for how to neatly fit it in with the box pleat.

It's not supposed to look like this!

The second muslin also sort of sucked to put together, but I did it. Damnit. I now have a list of how to put together the final,

This is more like it. I know you people are like what is this? I promise to post the final skirt when it is done.

Jcrew box pleat skirt
Again, this is the inspiration.

Here are some drawrrrings and notes.

Drawings and notes for the second skirt, which is still in the works.

Inverted box pleat muslin.Process
Gathered panel skirt muslin.

marc jacobs skirt
This is my inspiration for the second skirt. I hope that it will look similar to this when it is done. Easy, breasy. A little volume and yet flattering for my curves. From Marc Jacobs Spring 2013 collection. Photo by the Satorialist.

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